How Can I Make My Stand Up Shower Bigger

How Can I Make My Stand Up Shower Bigger – So the Mustache family now lives happily in the little vacation suite I built for us with the constant help of my friend and host Johnny Aloha. There are still some finishing touches to add (including painting), but for the most part everything works now.

The best part of this place is the bathroom, which you can see in the picture on the left. Ah, ah.. sounds good, doesn’t it? Well, I love it anyway, and I wanted to build something that would serve as the centerpiece of this future rental unit, keeping it in the luxury market and thus allowing it to earn ever higher rents. .

How Can I Make My Stand Up Shower Bigger

The cool part is that it didn’t really cost much to build. The floor-to-ceiling travertine tile, dark tile, river rock panels and even the handle and valve were found at a deep discount on Craigslist. A shampoo bar that keeps your wife’s lashes out of your personal space is just a few more cuts on the wave saw. And the downspout that lets the water flow into the drain is made exclusively from old concrete and construction mix, at a fraction of the price of a plastic over-the-shelf shower. Still, the whole thing only took a few days to build an empty shelf out of plywood and sticks (which I then made from even more empty bark that hadn’t been used in their car space before).

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A beautiful bathroom can add $10,000 or more to the value of a home in a nice area. It’s also very easy to use even if you’re not planning to sell your house – I built a similar bathroom in my house and we’ve enjoyed it a lot over the years. But if you ask a bathroom contractor to build one of these things for you, you’ll usually get a price tag of $5,000 or more, and as a result, most of us shower in metal tubs or plastic tubs that come in old molds. stuck in framing. white fingers

The key to this whole thing is a feature called a “shower tray”. It’s a secret piece of black ops that hardly anyone knows how to make in this country, which is why you see so many plastic shower trays out there. Some professional shoe installers can do this, but they will cost you a fortune and still may not turn out the way you want. But once you’ve discovered the secrets, you’re free to build bathroom faucets of any shape or size, at an amazingly low price (as little as $60 including grouting and sealing*). And today I’m going to show you how to make one.

The basic idea is this: we make a completely liquid concrete bowl with a drain in the middle.

Look for a two-piece swimsuit like this one. This type is designed to wrap around a plastic shower tray, but it works great for our purposes (you don’t need a rubber ring) (Photo credit/hand model: Mike)

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There will usually be a raised “barrier” at the mouth, and a fine surface of brick or stone on top of the concrete. After you’ve finished the tile, grout and grout, move on to painting the rest of the bathroom walls. But it all starts with a disposable shower tray.

The easiest way to do this is to build the sidewalk first. It is about making a wooden frame and filling it with concrete. I tend to make these things 5″ high and 4″ thick, so you just cut two 5″ boards to length, attach them to the floor and walls as needed, making sure there is a 4″ gap between them. are there.

Here’s an example of an irregular corner shape I created last year to fit a shower into a small bathroom at The Foreclosure Project:

Note that in this case for extra strength, I inserted several large 4″ ground studs into each joint, and threaded the reinforcing wire toward the center of the mold to increase tensile strength (and therefore resistance) in the finish. (breakage) to create more. mold. Usually not necessary, I just find it really fun to make strong concrete things. The black stuff below is roofing paper – just to separate the concrete from the plywood, to keep moisture out of the concrete. do not let moisture seep into the ground.General good practice for concrete over wood.

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If you’re also doing the drain pipes yourself, you’ll want the drain pipe to be flush with the plywood floor so that it’s about 2 inches above the floor when you glue on the shower drain. When we pour the concrete later, the minimum thickness will be 2 centimeters.

This is the part where things get interesting and this article will hopefully save DIY bathroom builders time and money. In the old days (and still mostly today), drop-in shower trays were made in three steps: molding the front leg, the rubber lining, and then the top of the drop-in. It looks something like this:

Thing is, the old method hasn’t been updated to reflect a newer invention: shoe polishes like Redguard and Aquaguard. This material is basically liquid rubber in a mold, and it overcomes the shortcomings of old rubber by combining full adhesive with a surface that can be attached directly to shoes. With new technology, you can pour one layer of concrete and mix it with:

Note that this method is something I came up with more or less by looking at the product’s poor technical documentation and testing it. The shoe installers I know still do things the old way, and some may scoff at the innovation. But I’ve built at least 20 such baths now, and I can still look down at the oldest one and make sure the wood is completely dry – no leaks. For this design it will be almost impossible

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Now that you understand the basics, let’s take a look at some action shots to demonstrate molding, molding and stamping in detail.

The top of the watering can should be about 2 inches from the ground. To create an even line, use a ruler or level to draw a line around the perimeter of the shower tray about 2.75 inches off the floor. This will give a nice 3/4 inch gap so the water can run down the drain.

You want a fairly dry (almost dry) cement mix. But not the usual concrete in it, here we use a mixture of masonry, which is just portland cement and sand – the same as used for masonry. Available in the store next to normal concrete bags. About three 36 kg bags will make a 32″ x 48″ shower.

Mix the cement outside one wheel at a time, and pour it into the house in a 5 liter bucket. Throw it in your next bathroom and it will look like this:

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Throwing, spreading. Note that the top of the drain valve/switch has been removed for this step. But cover the rest of the drain with tape so you don’t get concrete in the trap!

From now on everything is normal – use a series of straight edges to smooth and smooth the concrete, adding more pockets until you get a nice and smooth bowl:

When it starts to look good, I shine a light horizontally across the surface to highlight all the bumps and folds, which can be smoothed out and re-smoothed:

Built in less than a week), you have a solid piece of concrete that in theory will already draw water straight down the drain. But we want even better coverage, so you’re ready to engage Redguard. It goes right over the concrete, over the plastic end of the drain, and a few feet into the walls. Then you can top the last drain, which you drop down to match your finished tiles, like this:

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Once dry, you’re back to a standard cement job: First do the floor and grout (for the best seal), then work your way up to the walls the next day. I don’t have the space in this article to explain the whole art of showering, but maybe someday I’ll have a chance to work on one of these things with you in person.

A Poured Showerpan may seem like a daunting task, but it’s about 4 hours of work from start to finish once you’ve got the hardware working (and still under 8 even the first time). After that, it will take you another 8-16 hours to rest and shower. For many DIY home renovators, learning this skill is an investment with a huge return.

If this bathroom increases our new rent by $100 per month, that provides cash flow for an investment of $30,000 at 4% after

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Erick Norman

Hi, I am Erick Norman. A blogger specialist in Kitchen Design.