How To Build A Kitchen Island With Drawers

How To Build A Kitchen Island With Drawers – I was quoted about $3000 for a custom kitchen island with a butcher block. No thanks… I’ll make my own for about $850 🙂

This was by far the most ambitious project I have ever researched. I’m grateful I did it, very proud of the result and happy to share my process. Full video below, all the tools and materials I used and full steps in the article.

How To Build A Kitchen Island With Drawers

After a year I finally learned SketchUp well enough to design all the parts. Here is the movie poster.

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Below are some more complete SketchUp models, as well as an overview of all the integrated parts.

With 3/4″ plywood on top of this construction – 2 sheets to be exact. Pictures 1-3 show how I divide it into different sections for my build. My island design would have three drawers and storage on one side. and 12″ area. on the other side for two chairs and measures 3′ x 5′. Figure 4 shows the structure of my final cut.

Everything in this project is within pocket holes. I think the pocket hole screws used about 200 1 1/4. I work with pocket holes for just about anything and highly recommend the tool!

Photos 1-4 show me the art, using my push driver for gluing, positioning and installation. At this stage I was concerned about getting everything as square as possible – it really wasn’t meant to break! Picture 5 shows one of the two legs that help form the slot for the two chairs – I used a small block to help. keep the space the same and not the “inner cup”. Figure 6 shows the top and bottom horizontal beams that fit on each side of the room and add support to the structure (to keep everything together).

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Photos 7-9 show the use of more glue and screws to assemble the end pieces of the stop. This wasn’t difficult – it just took time and careful measuring to get everything precise and in place!

After assembly, I also divided the piece into three quarters (pic 1) and sawed 3/4″ plywood on the table (pic 2). Pic 3 shows these two pieces after applying glue and screws. horizontal beds on the same piece adding , which will be the dividers between the wardrobe and the trousers.

Photos 4-6 show using pieces of 3/4″ plywood and pocket holes to glue and screw to the base so that the top shelf is attached.

The next step was very easy – I took 1/4″ plywood and cut it to the length and width shown on the chart (photos 1-2) and then glued it – the relative sizes of each piece of plywood are based on the relative size of each. 18 To make it about “x 20”, I then clamped all the panels together with a key (picture 3).

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My fiance wanted one of the cabinets to store large baking pans, which is not cheap in most kitchens. It occurred to me that I could create a custom cutting board, so I was all for it. To do this, I cut the plywood on the table and 1/4 of the plywood I saw on the two pieces of wood (photo 1).

The first layout is for the base and ceiling partition (Figure 2), the second layout serves as the actual partition (not shown, but is shown in photos 6-7). After applying the glue, I started gluing (Photos 3-4). So I made it with a little more to fit the space. I then used a nail to hold things in place (picture 5).

You can see how I used this method to go back behind the floor and connect the ceiling joists so I could slide them into my older ones (pic 6). These were held in their final form (Figure 7) with glue. This method allowed me to do it in a lively and efficient way without having to worry about cutting too many rabbets into the thin plywood, plus it was a cleaner design (at least I think!).

Look, I’m not going to hide the super-disgusting thing from you. In picture 1, I used 3/4″ plywood left over from the frame to make two lines about 4.5″ tall. Next, in photo 2, I put down the table saw and made two separate passes to cut the holes that will later hold the bottom of the shelf. For work – my steel is 1/8″ thick, so I cut one with a 3/8″ deep notch (half the thickness of the plywood), then moved the fence 1/8″ inch and cut the other so the bottom of the shelf drawer 1 /4” for later insertion of the rabbit.

Diy Kitchen Island

I then drilled with pocket holes to accommodate the shelf (Figure 3). After cutting my bottom shelf (1/4″ plywood to length, I inserted the tunnel joints (Image 4), then attached the drawer quarter (Image 5) and closed it with pocket holes.

Finally, I added drawer slides on each side with a parallel cut of the block on each side (Figures 6-7). I hated that part, but it was necessary (obviously!). Photos 8-9 show me installing the following fortifications (not fun, but necessary!).

Most cabinet furniture is called “face boards”, which are harder woods that are used to make cabinets with front panels and cover them with layers of plywood. I’ve always thought about painting my own island, so using people’s neighborhoods was perfect for my needs. I started by tearing all my material into 1 1/4″ strips (photo 1) and then laid all the pieces on the cider (photo 2). Measure but you have to know that I took the time to measure. how much I needed, how many things I needed and how everyone agrees.

Picture 3 shows how I lay it out to make sure I have everything on the front of the island (the side with the cabinets). Picture 4 shows me going through the holes in the pocket to start assembling, while picture 5 uses glue and the ANISOCYCLE pocket to assemble. parts These screws were made of the latest material, so they were completely hidden. A lot of research on YouTube told me that this is the most common way to collect face frames. It was essential to have a flat or large surface to work on and compress things (again Figure 5).

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Figure 6 shows me that they were also injected. This step was very important to the build – basically, if you start with one side that’s basically perfect, you can do all the back pages one after the other and things will stay perfect and fit into place just like you can put together. time

NOTE – I wouldn’t recommend nail plates to hold things in place unless you plan on painting your island so you can look at them and look bad. When I was going to paint this I knew I could use wood filler to fill all the holes and then cover it.

As mentioned, once the front was in place, each piece was easy to do as the front used a matching seam and so I was able to work around the island. As you do each thing, both sides fall into place and somehow things become just perfect.

Photos 1-2 show the construction of the interior of the island (reduced area), using staples, glue and then nails to finish.

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I then went back with the food grade filler from photo 3 to fill about 80 holes with the nail, then cut it with 120 grit sandpaper against the wood block to smooth it all out (pic 4). Therefore, it was achieved.

Before the rigid construction I walk you through, we wanted our islands to be complementary – mostly – in the form of a prominent “xs” attached past the plywood, not in relation to the rigid construction.

To do this, I cut the remaining 1/4″ plywood on the saw and saw board (photos 1-2) about 1″ wide and about the length I would need to make it. Then in 3-5 photos I could start each part.

Our design called for a two-sided center splitter, two x’s on each side. Starting with a center divider also gave me sides to measure and work from.

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Erick Norman

Hi, I am Erick Norman. A blogger specialist in Kitchen Design.